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Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: An Indian Metropolis Earns a Spot on Unesco Gastronomy List.

Aromatic rice dish being prepared using the classic Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover securely sealed with dough.

Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.

An International Accolade

In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".

The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".

With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.

"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Succulent kebabs being served
Lucknow is renowned for its incredibly tender kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.

These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.

But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.

More Than Just Famous Dishes

Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Cloud-like dessert a winter specialty
The city offers unique treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique frothy dessert, when it gets cold.

Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries

Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.

To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall serving masala chai
A renowned tea stall is noted for its milky spiced tea.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.

On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.

MR
About the author

Melissa Roth

Chess historian and database curator with over 20 years of experience in game analysis.

BritBase UK

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